PURCHASE ADVICE

Which fabric for which garment? How thick, how thin? Lightweight or heavyweight? How much do i need?
Can you recommend a seamstress or a taylor to me?

We are happy to answer your questions by email via our CONTAKT page or by phone during normal business hours at +49 (0) 69 94762113.

Subjects

TuchundStoff for your group
Buying fabric is a matter of trust – because not all wool is the same
Attention: 330 = 220! Running meters versus square meters
Thick equals warm?

TuchundStoff for your group

Do you know which fabrics are suitable and do you want to help your members in the selection process so that a new garment will certainly fit the time, place and state of your presentation? TuchundStoff helps you with that!

It’s that easy: You select the possible fabrics in our web shop and send us a list with the respective article numbers or the product categories via our CONTACT – page. We store all the fabrics you have selected with a password, which you then simply enter in the search field of our web shop to display the list of your fabrics.

Here you can see how this looks like at the IG Gewand zu Bretten, “Um1504” . ( To the IG Gewand website .)

We look forward to supporting your group with this free and non-binding service!

Buying fabric is a matter of trust – d hen not all wool is the same.

Judging the quality of a material is often not easy for the inexperienced layperson, because a beautiful color does not say anything about the quality of the material. If the fabric falls apart under your hands while sewing, you will freeze in it in a cool wind and quickly get wet, the fabric and the beautiful color will distort onto other previously beautiful clothes and is the garment in which you invested so much time and effort worn out after a few times, the joy of the supposedly low price quickly turns into frustration. Here are a few tips to help distinguish good material from bad material:

Purity of nature

For all who value the greatest possible authenticity of their portrayal, the basic requirement is that the fabric of their clothing does not contain any synthetic fibers. Often the problems with the procurement start here, because in the normal fabric trade most of the fabrics on offer consist at least in part of synthetic fibers. In normal life, that doesn’t necessarily have to be bad, because wearing, care and visual properties can be positively influenced by this. However, this is not desirable in connection with historical representations. Therefore, with the exception of a few special textiles, all of the fabrics we offer are synthetic-free.

A fire test can easily be used to check whether a substance is natural. You light a small, cut-out piece of cloth with a lighter, let it burn briefly and then put it out again. Pure wool smells like burned hair, small globules formed from the ashes can be easily rubbed between the fingers. Pure linen smells like burnt paper, the ashes are easy to grind here too. If the fabric contains synthetic components, it smells of plastic and small, solid globules remain.

However, the freedom from synthetics is only a basic requirement that says nothing about the wool or the weave and therefore does not represent a quality feature.

…to be continued…

Attention: 330 = 220! Running meters versus square meters

We generally give the weight of our fabrics in running meters (running meters). The fabric weight can also be given in square meters (m²). Then a difference appears where there is none at all: a fabric with a web width of 150 cm logically weighs exactly the same at 330g per running meter as at 220g per square meter. So be careful when comparing fabrics! To be on the safe side, we include both values in the product details.

Thick same warm?

Customers often ask us for a fabric for a warm coat and are looking for a wool fabric that is as thick as possible. You can do it. But the main task of a coat or cape is to keep the weather away. If the wind and rain stay outside, that’s half the battle for the comfortably warm climate in the garment.

The other half is taken care of by many layers that are worn on the skin, whereby the bottom should be as close as possible. The body warms the air between the various layers and this creates the cozy warmth that we love outside, but which quickly becomes too much for us in closed, heated rooms.

But back to the coat fabric. How can fabric keep wind and water out? A simply woven wool fabric can do this due to its thickness, but only up to a certain point. Even if it is tightly woven, from a certain strength wind passes through and blows away the warm air underneath. Water stays outside for the time being, but over time it seeps through and you get wet.

The best remedy is a cloth loden made of pure new wool; this is spun and woven, after which the resulting woolen fabric is made windproof by the process of multiple fulling. The wool is pressed together so that the individual hairs become matted together. The fabric is then turned into a fine cloth by shearing, which involves cutting off protruding fiber ends (the pile) to create an even surface that is water repellent due to the lotus effect.

Refined in this way, the cloth loden is wind and waterproof without having to be too thick, because its density achieves the desired effect better and longer. Of course there are also thick cloth loden fabrics, because in the end it is the requirements that count. A forester who does his work for eight hours or more in rain and cold in the forest has to make the highest demands (= heavy cloth loden). A reenactor who sits at the cozy campfire again after four hours of battle has medium (= moderate) demands; medium-weight cloth loden will be happy if you want to go for an hour’s walk in the rain.

So much for the facts. Personal preferences are of course a matter of taste, which everyone decides for themselves!

 

 

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